The short version: Clear everything off the floor, move all vehicles out, treat any active oil leaks, and make sure we have full access to the slab. Most of the prep work is on us — diamond grinding, crack repair, and surface cleaning are all part of every installation.
Your Pre-Installation Checklist
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Move all vehicles out — the day before. Cars, trucks, motorcycles, ATVs, golf carts — everything with wheels needs to be out of the space before the crew arrives. Vehicles cannot return to the coated surface for at least 48 hours after installation is complete.
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Clear the entire floor. Every square foot of the slab needs to be accessible. Move out toolboxes, floor-mounted storage, bikes, weight equipment, and anything else sitting on or very close to the floor. Wall-mounted shelves that don't touch the floor are fine to leave.
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Treat active oil drips (if applicable). If a vehicle regularly leaks oil on your garage floor, apply a concrete degreaser or TSP cleaner to those spots and scrub with a stiff brush 24–48 hours before your installation date. Old, set-in stains are handled during diamond grinding — this step is specifically for active, wet oil.
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Note moisture history. If your garage has experienced flooding, seepage after heavy rain, or persistent dampness, let us know before installation day. We perform moisture testing on every job, but knowing your history helps us prepare. Active moisture problems need to be addressed before coating.
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Clear a path for equipment. Our crew brings industrial diamond grinders, vacuums, and material containers. Make sure the driveway or approach to your garage is clear so equipment can be moved in without obstacle.
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Remove items within 12" of the floor along walls. Baseboards, outlet covers at floor level, door threshold strips, or any wall-mounted items close to the slab edge should be removed or temporarily raised so we can coat cleanly to the edges and walls.
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Plan to be available. Installation takes most of a full working day. You don't need to stay on-site the entire time, but someone should be available to let the crew in, confirm the color choice at the start, and do a walkthrough at completion.
What You Do NOT Need to Do
A lot of homeowners ask if they need to clean, sand, or prep the concrete themselves before we arrive. The answer is no — and in some cases, DIY prep can actually cause problems.
Leave the concrete prep to us. Diamond grinding, crack repair, moisture testing, and surface cleaning are all part of every installation. Using acid etching, rental grinders, or cleaning products before we arrive can interfere with the grinding process or leave chemical residue that affects adhesion.
- Don't acid etch the floor. Acid etching leaves a profile that looks similar to ground concrete but is far less consistent. Our diamond grinders create a superior mechanical bond profile.
- Don't apply any sealers or treatments. Sealers, hardeners, or penetrating treatments applied before coating can cause delamination. If your floor has been sealed previously, let us know so we can test before proceeding.
- Don't try to fill cracks yourself. DIY crack fillers often use materials that don't bond well with polyurea and need to be ground out before we can apply the Penntek mender. Let the crew handle all crack repair.
Oil Stains — What We Can and Can't Fix
Old, set-in oil stains are handled during diamond grinding in most cases. The grinder removes the top layer of concrete, taking most oil contamination with it. Very deep or long-standing oil saturation — where oil has soaked inches into the slab — can affect adhesion and may require additional treatment or could result in a custom quote.
Rule of thumb on oil: If the stain is old and dry, we'll handle it. If a vehicle is actively leaking and leaving fresh oil, treat it with degreaser before installation day. And if oil seems to be soaking into the concrete rather than sitting on top, mention it when you schedule so we can plan for it.
Moisture — The Most Important Factor
Moisture is the #1 cause of floor coating failure industry-wide. Polyurea bonds to concrete, not to water vapor — if moisture is migrating up through the slab during or after application, the coating can blister or delaminate over time.
We test every slab before coating using a calcium chloride or plastic sheet test. If moisture levels are too high, we'll discuss your options — which may include a moisture mitigation primer, delaying the install until conditions improve, or in severe cases, a referral to a waterproofing specialist before we proceed.
Basement floors need extra attention. Basement slabs are more likely to have moisture migration than garage floors. If your basement has ever had water intrusion — from a high water table, exterior drainage issues, or wall seepage — tell us before scheduling. We may recommend an in-person moisture assessment first.
Day-of Timeline: What to Expect
| Time | What's Happening |
|---|---|
| Crew arrival | Equipment unloaded, color confirmation, moisture test, final surface inspection |
| Diamond grinding | Industrial grinders open the concrete surface — loud and dusty (HEPA vacuums run simultaneously) |
| Crack & pit repair | Penntek mender applied to cracks and pitting, allowed to cure |
| Base coat | Polyurea base coat applied evenly across the full slab |
| Flake broadcast | Decorative color flake broadcast generously over wet base coat |
| Cure & scrape | Base coat cures; excess flake scraped and vacuumed |
| Topcoat | Polyaspartic topcoat seal applied over the flake layer |
| Final walkthrough | Crew walks through with homeowner; care instructions reviewed |
When Can You Use the Floor Again?
| Activity | Wait Time After Completion |
|---|---|
| Light foot traffic | 12 hours |
| Replace lightweight items (chairs, boxes) | 24 hours |
| Drive vehicles on the surface | 48 hours |
| Return heavy items (toolboxes, lifts) | 72 hours |
| Full cure (chemical resistance) | 7 days |
Temperature matters for cure time. Colder temperatures slow the curing process. In winter months — especially in Wisconsin — allow extra time before driving on the surface. When in doubt, add 24 hours to each of the timeframes above if temperatures were below 50°F during installation.
Frequently Asked Questions
You don't need to stay on-site all day, but someone should be present at the start to confirm the color and let the crew in, and at the end for a walkthrough. If you need to leave during the day, that's fine — just make sure the crew has a way to reach you if questions come up.
Diamond grinding produces significant concrete dust — we run HEPA vacuum systems alongside the grinders to capture as much as possible. There is a distinct smell during coating application, similar to a strong solvent, that typically dissipates within a few hours. Ventilating the space (opening a window or door to an adjacent room) is helpful. Pets and people with respiratory sensitivities should stay out of the immediate area during application.
Rain doesn't affect interior garage installations — the slab is covered and the work is indoors. Rain can affect patio and pool deck installations if it's heavy enough to flood the work area or if humidity is extremely high. For outdoor projects, we'll contact you if weather conditions require rescheduling.
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